1)  Look at your garage doors.  Is there light coming in below the doors?  You may need to replace the rubber bottom.  At Faribault Ace, we have them in stock.  One customer said,  “I can’t believe how easy it was.  I simply pulled out the old one with some pliers for grip and then installed the new one. ”  What about the sides or base of your doors or garage?  We have items to repair them or foam to fill them in.

2) Fall and winter is the time when pests look for nesting places inside.  We have a variety of pest control options to keep the critters at bay.  Stop in and talk to one of the Faribault Ace associates.

3) Now is the time to check your batteries on your smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.  If you need new batteries, Faribault Ace has them.  And, we also stock new models as well.  It is vital that you protect yoru home and loved ones.

4) Increase the efficiency of your furnace by simply replacing the filter.  We have several sizes in stock and also carry 3M models. 

5)  Drafty windows, doors or sliding doors?   Come in to get your kit to cover those items to keep the drafts away.

Make life easy on yourself outside the home as well.  Faribault Ace has a full line of chainsaws and snow blowers ready for delivery!!!

EP100

The EdenPure ^TM is a remarkable new advanced portable
 heater that can cut your heating bill up to 50% and pay for itself in a matter of weeks!

The EdenPure ^TM uses a new advanced quartz infrared heating system that never reaches a temperature that can start a fire.

The EdenPure^TM is perfect for improving you and your families’ health. Typical heating sources like furnaces, fireplaces, corn/fuel/propane burners, and normal space heaters reduce humidity which dries out your skin and sinuses causing bloody noses, and irritated eyes.

Traditional heating sources also remove the oxygen from the room and can emit poisonous carbon monoxide, fumes and harmful radiation into the room. This can make you susceptible to illness and disease by lowering your immune system and making you and your family feel sleepy.

The EdenPure ^TM heater is healthy! Its patented heating technology does not reduce humidity or oxygen in your home or office giving you and your family better health!

The EdenPure heating system also heats the room evenly, wall-to-wall and floor-to-ceiling. Other heating sources heat rooms unevenly with most of the heat ending up near the ceiling. Portable heaters can only heat an area a few feet around the heater leaving the rest of the room cold.

The EdenPure ^TM heats the room evenly from floor-to-ceiling. The result is the heat you need to feel comfortable is now down low where you dwell and you are no longer wasting money heating the ceiling!

Installation of locks is a common do-it-yourself project. According to market information, less than 7 percent of the total retail lock business is from locksmiths. A large percentage of consumers shop retail stores for locks.

LOCK MECHANISMS

The five mechanical types of key-operated locks are pin-tumbler, lever-tumbler, disc-tumbler, warded and combination locks.

Pin-tumbler locks with five or more pins offer greater resistance to picking. Depending on the number of pins, this lock offers many key changes. These locks can be made with as few as three pins but better locks have five or more. Pin-tumbler mechanisms are used in padlocks, deadbolts, cabinet locks, locksets and more.

Lever-tumbler locks are slightly less expensive than pin-tumbler locks, offer good security and many key changes. Lever-tumbler key blanks are rarely stocked. These locks are usually found on doors of older homes.

Disc-tumbler locks are medium-priced locks offering minimal security and many key changes.

Warded locks feature low-cost but superior weather resistance because of simple construction and lack of rotating internal parts. However, they provide only token security.

Combination locks offer good security and wide price range to appeal to homeowners and commercial users. Uses vary from bicycles to bank vaults.

Basic locks are an integral part of a house or building: auxiliary locks are devices like night latches and door chains used as “backup” security for basic locks.

BORED LOCKSETS

Bored locksets are part of the basic door hardware with the locking mechanism built into the doorknob and latch. They are classified as entry, hall/closet passage locksets and bath/bedroom privacy locksets.

Entry locksets are locked or unlocked from the inside by turning or depressing a small button on the inside knob. A key is required to unlock the pin-tumbler mechanism from the outside. Sets requiring a key on both the inside and outside are available for added security.

A quality feature in an entry lockset is the deadlatch. Because the regular latch is angled to the outside of the door, an intruder can depress it by sliding a piece of stiff material between the door and the frame. The deadlatch actuator is generally located in the rear of the regular latch and cannot be depressed in this manner (when installed properly).

A lockset that automatically unlocks when the inside knob is turned is good for the homeowner who doesn’t want to lock himself out of the house or one of the rooms.

Bathroom and bedroom privacy latchsets are designed for privacy rather than security and are equipped with a locking button on the inside but no key device on the outside. In an emergency, the lock can be opened from the outside by inserting a narrow object through the small hole in the outside knob and either depressing or turning the locking mechanism inside, depending on the type of lock.

MORTISE CYLINDER LOCKS

Mortise cylinder locks have a pin-tumbler locking mechanism in a cylinder. The latch can be operated from either side except when the outside knob is locked. A deadbolt is also used and operates by a turn of the inside knob. Both deadbolt and latchbolt can be operated by a key from the outside.

Mortise cylinder locksets are used in new installations and as replacements; they are mortised into the frame of the door. They can be used on many types of doors from heavy entrance doors to apartment buildings to residential doors. Some of these locksets can be used on vestibule doors; in this case they have a latch and deadbolt or latch only.

PADLOCKS

Padlocks provide portable security for movable objects-bicycles, motorcycles, boats and the like-and in locations such as storage sheds, gates, etc. where locksets are not practical. Although weatherproof construction is important, high security is more important to the consumer who wants to protect expensive equipment.

Laminated, pin-tumbler padlocks provide maximum security for valuables. Laminated (layered-steel) padlocks are virtually indestructible.

Hardened solid steel and steel alloys make better locks and shackles; solid extruded brass padlocks are more resistant to rust than steel, but can be damaged because brass is softer than steel.

Padlocks with five or more pin tumblers offer increased security against picking and are probably more secure than combination locks.

Re-keyable padlocks are generally used for commercial and industrial security needs.

Tubular cylinder padlocks offer many key changes by replacing the cylinder. Although most often used in electronic security systems, tubular cylinder padlocks are also used by owners of motorcycles and expensive bicycles.

Cable, chain and long-shackle padlocks are commonly used as bicycle locks but may not provide adequate protection for expensive bikes. A cable or chain with a separate lock could be recommended for greater protection.

U-bar locks provide maximum protection for expensive bikes.

Padlocks with chain or cable permanently attached to the shackle are versatile locks but cable or chain and shackle must be matched in strength and diameter to the lock.

Trailer locks are used to secure standing trailers by rendering the towing device inoperative. The lock covers or fills the coupler socket so that it cannot be mounted on ball.

JIMMY-PROOF LOCKS

Jimmy-proof locks use an interlocking bolt mechanism to give maximum security.

Additional security comes from two interlocking vertical bits that engage the strike when the lock is closed. This means the door cannot be pried open because there is no room between the jamb and the door for a pry bar.

There are two styles of jimmy-resistant locks-single and double cylinder. The first needs a key to unlock the door from the outside. A knob or lever opens it from the inside. The double cylinder requires a key to open the lock from inside and outside. The double cylinder is recommended for doors with glass. (Double-cylinder deadbolts are not permitted in many areas of the country because they may delay escape from the house during an emergency.)

Some jimmy-proof locks come with a guard that prevents the lock from being opened with a screwdriver from the outside. This guard is a steel plate that is drawn back on a spring when the lock is installed. If the cylinder is pulled out from the outside of the door, the guard springs across the opening.

It is also a good idea to suggest one-way tamperproof screws be used with double-cylinder jimmy-proof locks.

DEADBOLT LOCKS

A deadbolt lock backs up a lockset on entry doors to provide maximum security.

The word “dead” refers to the fact that there are no springs to operate the bolt. It is locked or unlocked manually by a key or thumbturn on the inside.

There are a number of configurations for deadbolts including those incorporating deadbolts into conventional key-in-the-knob locksets.

Better units have a stainless-steel bolt with a roller insert to resist sawing and cutting. The industry standard requirements are 1″ for bolt throw.

The bolt locks the door to the frame and the extra-long bolt gives deeper penetration into the door frame and helps prevent the door from being pried open. Deadbolts with throws one inch or longer give greater security; mounting a one-inch or longer throw deadbolt with 3″ screws to engage the trim stud increases the security. The housing should also resist hammering or wrenching.

A single-cylinder deadbolt which is key operated from the outside is fine for solid metal or wood doors for greater security. Doors with glass require a double-cylinder deadbolt with key operation both inside and out. This prevents someone from breaking the glass, reaching in and unlocking the door.

Anyone purchasing a double-cylinder deadbolt should be cautioned to always keep the inside key in the lock when they are home. In case of fire or other emergency, the danger of a double-cylinder lock is that the key will be missing.

HASPS

Hasp consists of a metal hinge and an anchoring bolt (loop), so locks can be secured to gates, sheds and garages. High-security hasps will have anchored eyebolts, pinless hinges and hidden screws. A padlock is inserted through the bolt and locked to secure the hasp. Some hasps-called hasplocks-have padlocks attached to them. This makes it impossible to lose the locks when gates or doors are opened. To unlock the hasplock, the padlock portion is operated by a key and turned a quarter turn; a quarter turn in the opposite direction locks and secures the hasp.

NIGHT LATCHES

Night latches have an automatic locking feature. The lock bolt is made on a 45° angle and retracts inside the case when hitting the keeper, thus locking the latch automatically.

BARREL BOLTS

Sliding-lock mechanism to provide minimal security for average weight doors. Can also be used on windows. Available in decorative finishes and with surface or universal strikes. Some have spring action to hold bolt in place.

KEYED SASH LOCK

A keyed sash lock mounts like a regular sash lock, but with one-way screws to discourage removal. Lock can be released only by key. If window is broken, sash still cannot be opened. Can be supplied with master-key arrangement.

VENTILATING LOCKS

Used on windows and designed to allow slight opening for ventilation. Easily installed.

ELECTRONIC LOCKS

Hotels are now using electronic locks with credit card-sized paper replacing keys. Watch for them to move into the home market.

REINFORCEMENT HARDWARE

Reinforcement hardware are metal plates designed to give added strength to deadbolt and key-in locks. The plates are installed around existing locks. The plates are designed to prevent forced entries by making critical stress areas around the door and framing more secure.

LATCH GUARDS

Latch guards for in-opening doors help reinforce the door and frame and prevent spreading of the frame. A standard 7″ latch guard fits all backsets, deadbolts and key-in knob locks. A 12″ latch guard for in-opening doors also fits all double locks, mortise locks and access control locks.

Latch guards for out-opening doors protect the latch or bolt. Several sizes and types are available, ranging from a 6″ model designed to fit all backsets, deadbolts and key-in knob locks, on up to a 12″ latch guard for out-opening narrow stile doors.

INTRUSION ALARMS

Alarms used with electronic security systems range from a simple buzzer built into the device to systems with direct contact to local police stations. Because of the high number of false alarms, however, some police departments refuse to respond to home alarms.

Types of alarms depend upon personal preferences. Some feel that a loud alarm at the point of entry will scare off an intruder. Others prefer a remote alarm located in a bedroom so that homeowners can be warned without alerting the intruder that he has been detected. Others prefer an outside alarm so that the intruder knows neighbors are aware of his presence and are likely to call the police.

Simple alarms may consist of no more than a door-locking device with a buzzer attached. When the device is tampered with or the door opened when the alarm is set, it sounds. Such a device may be adequate for a second-story apartment with one entry door. However, most home intrusion alarms are more elaborate. There are two basic systems. One, called a perimeter system, detects intrusion at points of entry-doors and windows. The other, an area alarm, detects motion inside a room.

Some alarms offer special features like a medical alert alarm that can be worn or carried. Others include heat sensors and a smoke alarm. Systems like this can qualify consumers for a homeowners insurance discount, sometimes as much as 10 percent.

PERIMETER SYSTEMS

Some perimeter systems employ low-voltage wire, similar to stereo speaker wire, to connect magnetic window and door sensors to a control panel. Others use individual radio transmitters at each door and window sensors to trigger an alarm at the control panel. When a door or window is opened, the switch is activated and the alarm sounds.

Since perimeter systems designed for do-it-yourself installation are frequently battery powered, ease in testing the batteries can be an important factor. A dead battery renders the alarm useless, so frequent testing is vital. Some systems sound a warning when batteries begin to lose their charge.

In the case of a wired system, pushing a control-panel button checks the entire system. In a wireless system, each transmitter has its own battery and must be individually checked and all batteries must be replaced periodically.

Some battery-powered units are combined with smoke, gas and medical emergency alarms to provide complete protection from one control unit.

AREA ALARMS

Area alarms generally plug into standard 115V electrical outlets; hence, they are simple to install. Most use either ultrasonic (inaudible sound) waves or microwaves to detect motion. When motion in the area triggers the detector, the unit sounds a loud horn or siren. They are usually more expensive than other systems.

At least one system offers a battery-operated, portable unit that detects motion in a narrow field over a 10 range and sounds a loud alarm. It can be carried and used in hotels, etc.

Ultrasonic detector waves go only as far as the walls of a room, while microwaves will penetrate walls and windows. This can be an advantage if detector coverage of several rooms is desired. However, this same spill-over effect greatly increases the chances of false alarms in small living areas such as apartments where people may be moving in adjacent quarters or hallways.

Some types of ultrasonic area alarms utilize a narrow sonic beam that must be bounced off a hard wall surface, perpendicular to the beam. An intruder has to “break” that narrow beam before the alarm sounds. Some care must be taken in positioning this type of unit to make certain the reflected signal does indeed return to the detector, to be sure it will detect the intruder.

Other ultrasonic units use a wide beam that virtually fills the area and detects motion anywhere in the trap zone. This design is easier to set up and is free from accidental misalignment if bumped or moved slightly since aiming of the beam is not critical.

Most area alarm systems require some adjustment after they have been placed in a room in order to achieve the right strength signal to protect that area. Better systems are self-adjusting to assure reliable detection and forestall false alarms due to poor setting by the owner.

Perhaps the most important consideration in an area alarm is avoiding false alarms. These can be caused by air conditioners, drapery moving above a hot air register or even a telephone ringing. Better, newer systems have circuitry built in that discriminates against these spurious signals to safeguard against false alarms.

Among the options available in some advanced area alarm systems are wireless repeater alarms (or “satellites”). Satellites can be plugged in anywhere in the home to generate additional noise and to relay the warning to remote bedrooms. The instant the area alarm detects an intruder, a signal is transmitted via regular household wiring to sound the satellite. This can even be placed in a neighboring house to alert residents to an intrusion next door during vacations or absences, so they can call police on behalf of the alarm owner.

Some area systems can also be connected to door and window sensors to provide perimeter protection as well as area coverage. Outdoor sirens are also available to alert the whole neighborhood in the event of an intrusion.

Deep-watered plants will have long, deep-seated roots that will find moisture beneath the surface when the sun has baked the ground.

In summer, apply water when the temperature is moderate and when the wind is calm-not in hot sunshine or strong wind that will immediately evaporate the water and leave the soil harder than if it had never been watered.

The rate of penetration into the soil is very important. Water should be applied no faster than the soil surface is able to absorb it. This is determined by the rate of application, hose size, length of hose, water pressure, the water head and the type of soil. Sand has coarse particles and will absorb water faster. Clay particles are much finer and absorb water at a slower rate. As a general rule, the faster the soil absorbs water, the more frequently it needs to be watered.

If you live in a region that has fairly strong, constant wind, recommend a sprinkler with a low, moderate to heavy spray; otherwise the homeowner can lose up to 40 percent of the water.

Night watering can be recommended because water pressures are higher, winds calmer and temperatures lower to reduce evaporation if the sprinkler has a timer or meter or the homeowner is willing to watch the watering so that the soil isn’t overwatered.

- Sluggish insects often called “plant lice,” they suck the sap of plants, discoloring and deforming them… Winged and wingless, depending on stage of development.

- These microscopic orange/green insects are especially dangerous because they breed so quickly and cause such great damage. Attaching to most kinds of plants, they spin fine webs on the underside of the leaves and suck the juices.

- These hard or soft, oval or round slow-moving insects are often hard to identify and resemble colored blisters on the plant. Protected when mature by tough scale coating. Color depends on species. Sucks plant sap and excretes honeydew, weakening plant.

- Oval; covered with a mealy, waxy substance; gather in sheltered corners of the plant and suck the sap. Attack almost every kind of plant, especially African violets.

- these worms, also sap-suckers, produce hard swellings on the plant which vary in shape according to the type of plant. Symptoms are slow growth; pale, yellow leaves. Sterile soil is the best prevention. Infected plants and soil should be burned.

- Tiny fly-like insects. Harmless to plants, but a nuisance. Severe infestation of maggots can damage plant roots. - These sucking insects feed on juices and plant tissue. Indoor thrips like gloxinias.

- Adults look like miniature moths. Cluster on underside of leaves. Like begonias, citrus, fuchsias, geraniums. Also suck sap. Adults difficult to control.

The latest expensive pool to build is one using 20- or 32-millimeter “fish grade” PVC liner. Fiberglass shells, however, are easier to install, but cost twice as much. Fiberglass will last indefinitely; whereas, PVC liners have a lifespan of about 10 years. Underground sprinkler systems make an attractive addition to the pond, along with lights, plants, fish and even water lilies.

“Y” connectors, with or without shutoff valves, attach to the water supply to control two hoses at the same time.

Small leaks in plastic hose can be cemented with a plastic adhesive, then reinforced by wrapping with plastic tape or applying a plastic patch. Dab the cement on and wait until it gets sticky, then wrap with tape or press patch into place. When this is hard, apply a second layer of cement on top of the patch.

While these repair methods are still used, many consumers are turning to inexpensive plastic couplings to repair even small leaks. Metal couplings made of sheet and/or rod brass have always been used for sizeable leaks or badly split sections of hose, but the plastic couplings can be used on large or small leaks.

One plastic hose mender kit includes a barbed tubular insert and clam shell-shaped clamps that can be used on either plastic or rubber hose. The defective section of hose is cut out, the two hose pieces are pushed over the barbed tubular insert and the clamps are screwed around the outside of the hose. Damaged male or female hose couplings can also be repaired with this system.

Metal clincher couplings have metal cleats around a brass insert. After the hose is pushed over the insert, the cleats are pounded down with a hammer or crimped with pliers to hold the hose. It is important to crimp the cleats evenly or the repair leaks. These clinchers are also available as menders for male or female ends. They can be used on rubber or plastic hoses. However, for plastic hose a compression fitting with a threaded collar is better because it is less likely to puncture the outer covering.

Sometimes in metal hose repair a steel worm gear clamp is used to hold the hose to the insert. On plastic hose, a tapered brass bushing may be screwed into the inside of the hose to wedge it against the hose repair coupling. This bushing can be taken off and used again.

Another mender for plastic hose is a tube that is inserted into the hose and sleeves are screwed over the hose. This system is also removable and reusable.

In all cases, whatever type of mender or coupling is needed, be sure the hose has been sized correctly as most systems come in several standard hose sizes.

A basic system can be installed in an afternoon. The system offers these benefits:

Water savings because sprinkler heads apply water at the rate of a gentle rain.

Reduce water loss from erosive run-off. System can be preset to operate at those hours when evaporation from wind and sun is minimal, when demand on water supply is lowest.

System is freeze-proof and can be winterized quickly.

Sprinkler heads are mounted flush with the ground, out of the way of mowing equipment and children.

Component parts, also packaged in kits, are:

Electric control center - runs the system from any 110 V outlet.

Simple adjustment permits watering schedule to be changed. Can be scheduled to water as often as five times per day, as little as once every other day.

Sprinklers - wave and automatic pop-up. Special heads, such as bubblers and fixed spray, are also available for specific watering tasks.

Pipe and control tubing - flexible and freeze-proof. Can be slit into the ground with little disturbance to the lawn.

Valve assembly - system attaches to a hose faucet in seconds.

A basic system can be added to without uprooting equipment already installed. This building block concept permits homeowners to establish large custom-designed installations over several years.

Don’t overlook potential sale of underground systems to schools, golf courses, parks, apartment complexes and industrial grounds.

A good complete commercial underground system has both gear-driven and fixed spray to custom water turfgrass and special plantings. Precise turf maintenance is accomplished by matching precipitation rates and positioning sprinklers according to the water requirements for each lawn and garden area (full sun, shaded, special plantings, hilly terrain).

Drip Irrigation systems are placed close to plant roots to water slowly, replacing only the moisture the plant uses daily.

Confining the watered area to the root zone saves water-as much as 50 to 70 percent. Weeds are not encouraged to grow and nutrients are not washed from the soil.

A drip irrigation system is installed on top of the soil.

The key fitting is the emitter, which has a small orifice and is fitted into a flexible hose. It emits about one gallon of water per hour.

Other parts include piping to run from the water source to the garden and from there to each plant or row of plants.

The hose can be laid beneath the ground but most users leave it above the ground and remove it at the end of the season.

Distance of water throw is governed by water pressure. Heads can be used individually or all at once. Water is discharged in a circular motion.

Nozzles - are an important part of the accessories business. Two types are generally offered-pistol or lever nozzles and straight nozzles-in either metal or plastic.

Pistol nozzles adjust spray patterns from a fine mist to a solid stream to full flow by squeezing the handle, or by turning an adjusting screw, dial or by using a multi-position clip. Plastic valves and/or stems are often used because they do not corrode, but metal stems are available. Deluxe units are usually larger and heavier with molded hand grip, thumbguard and fully adjustable spray patterns. Some units use a dial control for fixed spray patterns.

Straight nozzles are usually brass, die-cast zinc or plastic. Deluxe models use O-rings to seal off the waterflow, protect the inside adjustment threads and allow smoother and easier spray adjustment.

Water timers or meters - can be attached to hose to control sprinkling. Set timer for number of inches needed; it will compensate for changes in pressure and turn the sprinkler off when preset amount is reached. Pre-settings operate from 100 to 1,500 gal. Some timers can be preset to operate for a certain amount of time, regardless of the amount of water discharged.

Soil soakers - are now being manufactured of vinyl or reprocessed rubber and are replacing traditional canvas hoses for softly soaking the ground with water. Water is fed in at low pressure and then seeps out of the hose through thousands of tiny holes at a very slow rate. These hoses save significant amounts of water when compared to conventional sprinklers. Used to water shrubs, trees or gardens. Hose can be run on top of ground, under mulch or buried, and will last for years.

Flexible triple-tube or two-tube sprinkler soakers - vinyl soaker, with two or three tubular channels, lies flat on one side for spray watering; when turned over becomes soaker. Spreads water evenly at low pressure.

Spray hose - flat plastic hose in 20 to 50 lengths with fine perforations throughout entire length. Creates rain-like spray for flower beds or bird areas.

Fan-type hand sprinklers - have small round holes that allow a fine, gentle spray. Excellent for new seed beds and delicate flowers. Some have a spike that allows unattended use.

Rain spout lawn protectors - attach to downspouts to channel rainwater away from house foundation. Rainwater from downspout forces protector to uncoil, sprinkling water uniformly over the immediate area through tiny holes in the hose. Some will recoil automatically when water pressure subsides; others must be re-rolled by hand. All are heavy-duty vinyl, available in several lengths.

Back flow protector - prevents reverse flow of water and contaminants sucked back into plumbing pipes through unprotected hoses. Protector is plastic or brass vacuum breaker that fits between the threaded faucet and hose. Most plumbing codes require that non-removable breakers be used; they must be drained in winter to avoid freezing.